St Jean Du Luz and Bayonet Ridge

Friday 28 June 1996

Throughout the battle of the Nivelle in 1814 this town was the right flank of the French defensive line. It is now a popular, and at this time of year crowded, seaside resort. This was our first sunny morning, and we celebrated with a day by the sea. We had a very pleasant day exploring the town, but found nothing of interest from a Napoleonic point of view.

Saturday 29 June 1996

We had planned to visit Roncesvalles, but an overcast morning decided us against it. Instead we drove to the Spanish village of Vera to explore the Bayonet Ridge. As we parked outside the church the prospect of rain seemed very real, and we took our plastic jackets just in case. Vera is a very pretty village, but did not look its best today

The French held a very strong fortified position on The Rhune, which is the dominating mountain in this part of the Pyrenees. On 7 October 1813 the Light Division crossed the river Bidassoa and stormed the enemy fortifications on the Bayonet Ridge. The attack was a complete success and secured the Greater Rhune for Wellington, forcing the French to retire to their second line of defences on the lower Le Petit Rhune.

Behind the church in Vera a good path leads up the hill towards the Star Redoubt, the site of the first French position. There is not much to see of it now, though a careful examination of the area does show the overgrown outline of the redoubt.

We were fortunate to be able to explore both the Star Redoubt and the Bayonet Ridge before the rain arrived. But when it did arrive about 2pm it was heavy and accompanied by a thick mist, which forced to abandon our task and seek shelter in the collection of tax free shops which now occupy the area near the road through the mountains.

Le Petite Rhune

Thursday 27 June 1996

At last a dry, if overcast, morning. After a hasty breakfast we set off to climb La Petite Rhune on the path from Sare. The building, and the approach road, looked much too modern to have been there in 1813.

Nearing the top of La Petite Rhune and looking down on Sare.

This outcrop on La Petite Rhune was our objective. It was here that the French had built three redoubts facing Wellington’s position on La Grande Rhune, the peak in the distance with the building and aerials. The light division hid in the valley between the two peaks, and attacked the redoubts from the left.

This is the remains of the one of the redoubts. They consisted of rocks piled on top of each other, similar to a stone wall, and would easily have been dismantled.

This is the ridge of Le Petite Rhune. The light division attached from left to right, taking the three redoubts in the process. This is the location of the third, and strongest, of the three redoubts called The Donjon.

Behind the redoubts was a stone wall connecting to the Mouiz fort. This was another stone built fortification, but much larger than the three redoubts overlooking it. The photo is taken from The Donjon looking down on The Mouiz.

The entrance to The Mouiz Fort. The walls are chest high

Jan leaning on the wall demonstrates how easy it would have been for the garrison to fire over the wall. The fort was attacked by 52nd Light and apparently fell quite quickly, as did the three redoubts above it.

Ainhoa and the Pass of Maya

Wednesday 26 June 1996

It was a little depressing to wake to yet another overcast morning. The weather had been a disappointment so far, but at least it was not heavy rain as on the previous day.

Today we planned to revisit the Pass of Maya. We had already spent some time there the previous year, but felt that it was worth a second, and more detailed visit. Driving from Sare to Maya we would pass Ainhoa, described as “the prettiest village in France” – no doubt many villages have a similar name! Ainhoa played an important part in the in the battle on 25 July 1813 as d’Erlon’s corps formed up there prior to their march on the Pass at Maya. There is little to see now, other than a pretty village. But it served as a good location for a cup of coffee whilst we waited for the weather to clear.

From Ainhoa it was but a short drive up to the Pass of Maya. Last time we had approached from the south, this time we were following the French march, though on a modern road. But we did get a good impression of the terrain they had to pass

Mount Gorospil is a small hill which dominates “The English Road”, then the main track from Ainhoa to the Pass of Maya. It was held by a company of about 80 men as an advanced observation post, and was the scene of fierce fighting during the early stages of the battle. Last time we had experienced some difficulty in locating it, mainly because we were looking in the wrong place! Better prepared this time, we even found a sign post to it.

This apparently wild horse is walking on “Chemin des Anglais”, which was the scene of the most famous part of the battle. It is marked on the map above as “area of fierce fighting”. It is a narrow grass path which leads from Mount Gorospil to the Pass itself. Having taken Gorospil the French had only to advance the short distance to the Pass in order to deploy and destroy the defenders. As they reached this point they were met by half a battalion of the 92^nd (Gordon Highlanders). 400 men faced an entire French division and delayed their advance, though at a terrible cost.

Jan is sitting on Mount Gorospil and looking down on “Chemin des Anglais”. It is clear from this photograph why possession of this hill was so important to both sides.

Another view from Mount Gorospil, looking towards the Pass of Maya, which is just out of sight behind the far hill. The hill either side of the path is very steep, and prevented the French from deploying and using their greatly superior numbers.

By now sun had disappeared and the sky was overcast and the dense mists so common in this area closing in. It was time to make our way back to the car and return to Sare for a hot meal. But even poor weather can be an advantage in walking battlefields, as they often have an effect on the battle. It also brought home how difficult it must have been to campaign in such conditions.

Louis XIV and Signal Redoubts

Tuesday 25 June 1996

We had planned to visit Maya this morning, but early morning rain convinced us to abandon this plan. This was not the weather we had expected in the south of France in June! We had a long breakfast indoors waiting for the weather to improve. By mid morning it had cleared and we walked into Sare to see what we could find in the tourist information office. The answer, as far as Napoleonic battlefields were concerned, was nothing. But they could direct us to a path which would lead to the Louis XIV and Signal Redoubts, a major part of Marshal Soul’s defensive position in November 1813

The Battle of the Nivelle was fought on 10 November 1813 to drive Marshal Soult into France and allow Wellington’s army to advance into the fertile plains and get out of the high mountains of the Pyrenees. The French had built a series of defensive positions from the coast at St Jean du Luz 20 miles inland to Urdrax. This line consisted of fortified villages and strong redoubts on the top of the high ground. This is not what anyone would expect who has visited Waterloo or Austerlitz where the two armies were lined up shoulder to shoulder. Over such a large area the French command and control proved difficult if not impossible. The Rhune, Sare, The Signal Redoubt and Louis XIV Redoubt were in the centre of this defensive line. The British 4^th division was given the task of taking Sare and the two redoubts, supported by the Light division once they had cleared the Lesser Rhune.

The tourist information office gave us directions to get to Louis XIV Redoubt. It led us up a steep hill behind Sare along a very wet and muddy path. This was not at all what I had expected, but it gave us an insight into what it must have been like for the French and allied troops who had to live rough in this area for many winter months. If it could be this cold and uncomfortable in June, what must it be like in the winter?

We eventually reached Louis XIV Redoubt, an earthen mound on the top of the hill, looking more like I would imagine an ancient hill fort to look like than a Napoleonic redoubt. There was no sign of any fortification, other than the circular mound. It did provide commanding views of the surrounding area. To Wellington’s troops who had to climb the same hill in full gear it must have seemed a very formidable position to attack

The rain had cleared, and the sky was a lot brighter, but it was still cold enough to need a jacket when we settled down inside the redoubt to have our picnic lunch and read about the battle in F C Beatson’s “Wellington, The Bidassoa & Nivelle”. For anyone who wants to explore this area I can not recommend this book too highly. It contains a detailed yet easy to read description which, combined with walking the ground, gives a much greater understanding of the battle, which is complicated and wide ranging.

The Signal Redoubt as seen from Louis XIV Redoubt. It is much steeper and quite difficult to climb, but is worth the effort for the extensive views alone. And again it brought home what excellent soldiers Wellington commanded, who could tackle an attack on such a strong position despite living in such rough conditions.

As always The Rhune mountain dominates the whole area. From our previous visits to The Rhune I had appreciated how difficult the task to take that objective which was given to the Light Division. But I had not appreciated how difficult the terrain they, with the Fourth Division, would have to tackle in the hills behind Sare. This day brought home as never before how little resemblance our wargames tables bear to the actual battlefields fought over by Wellington and Soult.